What is it like owning a RWD Sakura D4
Not really
knowing if I would stick to the hobby this time, my main concern was to keep
the budget as low as possible. Therefore my sight inevitably ended up on
3Racing Sakura D4 RWD.
My initial setup
was:
- 3Racing Sakura D4 RWD (108 $ on rcmart.com)
- Hobbyking X-Car 120A brushless ESC (39 $)
- Hobbyking Turnigy Trackstar 10.5T sensored brushless motor (38 $)
- Hobbyking Turnigy 5000MAH LiPo (23 $)
- Hobbyking Trackstar Gyro V2 (22 $)
- Secondhand Hi-tec 2.4 Ghz radio (about 45 $)
- Old analog Hi-tec servo I already had (0 $)
As soon as
I assembled the chassis, I ran to the newly discovered local drift track to get
some slides. Pretty optimistic. Turning the ESC switch on, I immediately
realized I was not going to slide anywhere.
Given by the out of the box design, the toe-out and ackermann were so extreme, I had to borrow a dremel straight away and cut both steering ball ends and turnbuckles to be able to set it reasonably. |
I set the
gyro gain somewhere in the middle and gave it a first try. Ouch! The car was
undrivable. On the carpet track, I had absolutely no grip on the rear. As soon
as I touched the throttle, I spin out.
So I
switched the battery to the rear and finally made some nervous skids. But no
way I could fit my 2016 NSX body on the chassis like this. So what to do now?
So I was
finally able to manage some laps around the track, but my ride was pretty quick
to bring me some more issues to solve.
Firstly I had
realized, that the cause of unexpected snap-spins, besides my lack of skill,
was locking of front wheels, which were driven by gyro into the suspension
arms.
Looking
closely to the front of the car, I noticed there was some weird geometry going
on. I hit the internets just to find out I would need a new set of KPI knuckles
to fix this.
In fact I
did not like the whole front. The upper arms were sloppy on the ball joints,
lower arms were thicker than they needed to be and the steering itself felt
wobbly.
So I decided to purchase my first upgrade, which was a discounted Boom Racing set of all knuckles with bearings and adjustable steering from Asiatees, leaving the other parts for later. |
I kept
driving the car like this for some time. When not driving aggressively, it was
quite predictable, giving me enough control for practicing my skills.
I could not even believe how much smoother and slidier the car
became. Together with front monoshock, I finally experienced a proper weight
shift plus rear wheels traction had also improved a few bits.
For the
first time I felt at least halfway as comfortable with the chassis as I would
like to. All until the point when I have decided I needed to get my steering
more precise.
Again I
zoomed my eye towards the front of the car.
I threw out the servo saver, instead of which I used a simple servo arm and swapped the servo link ball cups for tighter ones. |
Then I got a set of Boom Racing upper arms (with a shaft instead of ball joints, very nice). |
Also just to bling it out I purchased both front and back lower arms and silver carbon fiber decks. Everything Boom Racing from Asiatees, because the price was a bargain! |
Switching
the car on brought me a very strange surprise. I expected everything to be
razor sharp and buttery smooth but the thing was all over the place. Front
wheels wobbled like crazy when I just gently touched the steering.. ..what the
hell?
Eventually
I figured out (not really me, but rather my track colleagues), that my good old
(analog!!) Hi-tec servo was not really that great. The steering slop was just
so big, that it covered all the servo madness and the output was – believe it
or not – drivable.
Okay, so I
clamped in a brand new Savöx 1252 low profile servo and voila! The steering was
almost right on point. Maybe a little too fast – I could use slowing of servo
speed on my transmitter, but my ancient Hi-tec does not have the feature, too
bad.
I never
expected the car to be that much heavier, but a big ass difference was there.
Suddenly I gained much more confidence. My slides became longer, more
controlled and I could apply more throttle pushing the car into the outside
edge of the track, able to tick my back bumper around the fences.
My journey
with this both great and miserable piece of engineering has just begun. I have
gone from around 360 $ starter kit to over 700 $ halfway there project, knowing
I will stick to the hobby (and turning out I’m a tiny bit less of a cheapo than
I thought).
It still
has plenty of issues, but I believe, eventually, we will get there and I will
be able to honestly say, that my Sakura is a pleasure to drive.
Was really fun reading it all, and a really helpful story indeed to get someone's hopes back for the Sakura instead of MST. Really made me think that a budget RC can be better than those expensive builds when you have the right specs and skills ;). Go on and never stop drifting!
ReplyDeleteThank you, I appreciate it! It was a long journey, but it was all worth it, when it finally came in place. Now the Sakura is a killer!
DeleteUsually I never comment on blogs but your article is so convincing that I never stop myself to say something about it. You’re doing a great job Man, Keep it up. drift cars under 10k
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